Category: Argentina
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Ushuaia: first days at the end of the world
Ushuaia, Argentina is the world’s southernmost city. On the southern edge of Tierra del Fuego, it’s extremely isolated from the rest of Argentina and any other human habitation. It was a 17-hour bus ride to get there from El Calafate, as the route crosses into Chile and back again. But what an incredible place. I…
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El Calafate: in Pursuit of the Austral Rail
We sat quietly by the edge of the rushes, listening intently. The sun had yet to rise above the steppe, and the distant snow-clad peaks to the west were still a deep cobalt. From about 30 feet away, hidden deep in the reed bed was an Austral Rail, revealing itself only by its soft chirping…
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Bariloche
After my time chasing the Pampas Meadowlark in Bahia Blanca, I caught the bus to Bariloche, on the opposite side of the country. It left Bahia Blanca at 2 am, and got into Bariloche at about 5pm the next day (15 hours). This brings the total bus time to about 27 hours so far! I…
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Bahia Blanca – Pampas Meadowlark
The sun beat down on the brim of my hat as I stared out at the endless flat pasture, broken only by a few cottonwood trees on the horizon. It was almost noon. Another group of Long-tailed Meadowlarks was foraging along a barbed-wire fence by the roadside, so I watched as they flew back and…
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Bahía Blanca: Burrowing Parakeets
Bahia Blanca is the biggest town in the south of Buenos Aires province. A port city with several factories and diverse semi urban neighborhoods, it’s a very different vibe from the tight streets of Buenos Aires. Here’s a street in the neighborhood where I was staying: The owner of my hostel heard that I was…
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Buenos Aires
The plane landed at about 5am local time, and I groggily made my way through immigration and customs. On the plane I had met an architecture student from El Salvador; he was on the way back from christmas break as he studies at the University of La Plata (45 minute drive from the Buenos Aires…
Backcountry Birding 