Backcountry Birding

Standing on the pebbly shoreline of the Beagle Channel, the southern edge of Tierra del Fuego, I looked at the tiny bundle of grayish feathers foraging among the wrack and seaweed and grinned. “Playerito Rabadilla Blanca” said Lio, my newest birding friend “White-rumped Sandpiper.” He and I both understood the significance of this bird, which would wing its way north in just a few weeks to find a summer home at the other end of the American Supercontinent.

This very bird might weather out a Tennessee thunderstorm on the edge of Holland Lane Pond, or spend a couple of days eating worms at Andrew’s Island on the Georgia coast. I was a bit jealous of the bird in that it might get to see any number of birders I know in the states in just a few weeks, while I’ll be waiting a little longer before I fly back.

But I was in very good company myself! I had contacted the Club de Observadores de Aves (COA) of Ushuaia, and a young birder named Lio (19) reached out to me asking if I’d like to go birding at a local spot within walking distance from the city. Of course I would!! We met at a roundabout near the bay and walked along the coastline.

Lio explained that since there had just been a snowstorm up in the mountains, (which fell as rain down in Ushuaia, at sea level) some species of higher-elevation birds probably would be down here to search for food below the snow line. He was right! We saw quite a few Dark-faced Ground-Tyrants, which normally stay high in the hills.

We also saw quite a few species of shorebird, some of which were Austral species like Magellanic and Blackish Oystercatchers.

Many bird species to be seen in Ushuaia have the distinction of being the world’s southernmost (most austral) members of their respective group, since there’s not much land except for Antarctica any farther south. I got to see the world’s most austral woodpecker, the most austral parakeets, and the most austral hummingbird while I was there. But I’m probably most honored to have met the world’s southernmost Young Birder! I’m grateful for the hospitality: it was a great afternoon of birding.

After birding with Lio I had to hurry back to downtown Ushuaia: a member of the COA was a radio host with an environmental program, and she had invited me to be interviewed! Although I was terrified, I couldn’t pass up a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity like that. I showed up a few minutes early, got situated, and away we went! Alba Pereira was the host, and she was very kind to speak slowly and clearly so I could understand and respond. You can watch the interview here on YouTube!

I also got to go birding a couple of times with Sabrina Godoy, an architect who will claim that she’s a birding newbie. But I wasn’t fooled! She showed me a couple of great places to bird around Ushuaia, and managed to spot a Green-backed Firecrown, the world’s most austral hummingbird, from 100m away after the sun had gone down.

After finding the Firecrown we met up with another friend, Lucho, who works on the boat trips as a wildlife guide. It was a ton of fun chatting about the particularities of Ushuaia birding, as well as the wildlife that has been appearing this season in the Beagle Channel (due to an abundance of whale food there have been dozens of whale sightings, many more than usual!).

We also made a plan to try for Rufous-legged Owl, a bird that hadn’t been reported in Ushuaia in quite some time but would be a lifer for Sabrina. Although we didn’t get it that night, she and Lucho went back after a couple of days and saw the bird! 

At that point I had arrived back in El Calafate with Cristobal. But I absolutely loved my time in Ushuaia, simply because of the incredibly welcoming attitude of the local birders! I hope that I can return someday soon.